Written by Oliver Lips.
London Collections: Men in January always mark the beginning of a new year full of fashion weeks and its shows. Last Monday the first of those fashion weeks already came to an end, unfortunately at the same time as the news of David Bowie's passing.
From my perspective the London men's fashion week becomes more sophisticated every season since its beginning in Summer 2012. Not only did outsourced fashion shows return home, such as Burberry who used to present their menswear collection in Milan, but I think it has also had a huge impact on the men's fashion scene overall with lots of new emerging designers.
In terms of fashion weeks, globally speaking, London hasn't set its terms yet, whereas Milan and Paris both found their styles they kind of stuck with over the past couple of years, there is still a fresh gust of wind pulling through London with lots of experimentation and innovation.
Find below 10 observations from the Autumn / Winter 2016 shows:
1. Sleepwear becomes appropriate throughout the day
Continuing what started off over at Gucci after Alessandro Michele took over, sleepwear is not something only to be worn within the comfort of your own home, but is actually becoming more and more roadworthy. Who wouldn’t want to run around in his pajamas all day long?
Katie Eary, J. W. Anderson, Topman Design
2. Wide is in, skinny out
After years of skinny pants the leg gets wider, whether jeans or the trousers of your suit. Uncomfortableness is over for now and we are finally able to let it hang again! The cuts of course remain refined while the silhouette changes into something more laid-back.
E. Tautz, Alexander McQueen, Christopher Kane, Topman Design, Xander Zhou, Tiger of Sweden
3. Botanical prints
The floral print-trend from a couple of seasons ago has been opened to the whole flora and fauna, putting fruits, plants (and butterflies in Alexander McQueen’s case) on coats, jackets, suits, pants, sweaters and t-shirts. For winter in more modest colours of course.
Alexander McQueen, Topman Design, Tiger of Sweden
4. How to dress like a hooligan
The fashion world is catching up with the British hooligan-culture: while the violence hopefully has to stay out, we’ll keep the grungy looks including the iconic bomber jackets and ripped jeans!
Burberry, Topman Design, KTZ, Christopher Shannon
5. It's all about the hairstyles
When looking at the hairstyles in general you could see a lot of London from the 1960’s going on. Longer hair mostly unstyled and inspired by British music legends such as The Beatles, Rolling Stones, etc. But as always exceptions make the rule so you'd also see colours (Moschino), mullets, short hair, curls - you name it! It almost seemed as if every show decided on something different.
KTZ, E. Tautz, Moschino, Topman Design, Alexander McQueen, Coach
6. Graphic prints
To be honest, graphics were a rare sight in London this time and if so they tended to be more low-key in terms of colours and flashiness. Nonetheless I found it worth noticing as Christopher Kane (1st look) presented a beautiful collection with lots of desirable pieces.
Christopher Kane, Christopher Raeburn
7. Tribute to David Bowie
The last day of LC:M started with very bad news as we had lost a musical genius. Burberry and Xander Zhou picked up on the tragedy and paid tribute to David Bowie and his alter ego Ziggy Stardust by giving their models some sprinkles of glitter across their faces.
Burberry, James Long, Xander Zhou
8. The coats
Coats are as always a very big theme for the Autumn / Winter collections. The trend of wider clothing didn't stop for coats either. Not only did they become wider, but also longer and kind of unobtrusive, making them very chic with a touch of retro.
Burberry, Topman Design, J. W. Anderson, Alexander McQueen, Xander Zhou
9. The knits
Knitwear is of course essential in order to "survive" the cold winter days, so who better than Pringle of Scotland who have been honing the medium of knitwear for 200 years now. The beautifully crafted sweaters combined to a pair of black (leather) trousers and leather boots, simple but effective.
The clashes at Sibling couldn't have been greater: Beefy guys dressed as boxers, but at a second glance you'll notice that all the materials used are knitted. How cozy!
Pringle of Scotland, Sibling
10. Thumbs up for shearling!
Shearling coats and jackets are definitively going to take over the streets next winter. It has, and always will, look more down-to-earth than fur while keeping you just as warm! Especially in combination with black leather it creates a really cool look.
Coach, Matthew Miller, Topman Design, Pringle of Scotland, Belstaff, Tiger of Sweden